Good Start: the best breakfasts in London

They say to eat breakfast like a king – and this is particularly doable in London. The city is home to a spectrum of establishments serving the most important meal of the day, from iconic caffs dishing up delicious fry-ups to luxurious brasseries specialising in caviar-topped scrambled eggs, and small neighbourhood spots championing seasonal produce. You can also enjoy egg sandwiches inspired by those sold in New York’s bodegas, full-to-the-brim Mexican burritos with plenty of kick, tart compotes elevating humble bowls of porridge, and spicy Middle Eastern-inspired shakshukas. Here is our guide to where to enjoy the capital’s very best breakfasts, whether you’re looking for a light bite to start the weekday right or a long, lavish weekend brunch (and a Bloody Mary or two).

NORTH
1. Norman’s

If you’re searching for a no-frills, high-quality breakfast, make a beeline for Norman’s. This Tufnell Park cafe has been serving greasy spoon-style full Englishes since opening in 2020, alongside other jolly British staples such as scotch eggs and jelly and ice cream – all of which are papped in the most pleasing way and shared on its Instagram. Breakfast options include fried eggs and chips, porridge and jam, and beans on toast (topped with creamy red leicester) – but you’ll get food envy if you see the fry-ups. It’s the set breakfast for us: choose between a sausage, bacon and hash brown combo or a veggie version with bubble and squeak. Note: this is a ‘red sauce, brown sauce’ only kind of place – and is better for it.

2. Kissa Wa

This charming Japanese cafe, which is located behind Highbury Fields (head here for a leisurely stroll post-brunch), serves traditional dishes inspired by its owners’ motherland. The breakfast menu, for instance, offers a teriyaki mushroom panini with yuzo-kusho vegan mayo and homemade granola with seasonal fruit compote, fresh fruits and yoghurt (either organic or vegan). The star of the show, however, is its ‘original Japanese breakfast’, which sees a poached egg, tofu, wakame mingle in a homemade miso broth and served with multigrain rice. And don’t forget to check out its selection of Japanese teas too.

3. Esters

Tucked away on one of Stoke Newington’s leafy residential streets is the unassuming Esters: a brilliant neighbourhood cafe that is always full of N16 residents. Breakfasts are substantial and seasonal, but homemade baked goods are a permanent fixture (go for the cheddar scone if it’s available) and there are always delicious condiments to purchase. The signature breakfast roll (Esters’ version of the New York bodega staple) is filled with fluffy eggs, a showering of cheese and – if it takes your fancy – salty black pudding. If you’re a fan of desserts masquerading as breakfast, however, then go for its french toast, which is served with seasonal fruits, cream and a nutty crumb.

4. Towpath

The appetite for Towpath’s annual reopening grows with the first signs of spring. This alfresco spot, which opens its shutters between March and November, is always buzzing with diners craning their heads to see what’s on the blackboard. While lunch and dinner here change weekly, signature dishes stay put on the breakfast menu. The most delicious is arguably the crispy fried eggs with caramelised sage, which sees herb-infused oil drip through toasted sourdough bread and on to the mix-and-match side plates. There are also warming plates of Turkish eggs and bowls of crunchy house granola sitting under tart seasonal compotes. Order an americano and sip it from a Picardie glass tumbler while you watch the world go by, canal-side.

SOUTH
5. Terry’s Cafe

Opened in 1982 by the eponymous Terry, a butcher from Smithfield, this family-run cafe is now helmed by his son, Austin, who locals will attest brings lashings of energy to this Borough institution. While it has plenty of old-school charm, it takes its food – not itself – seriously. For it is far from your average greasy spoon: Terry’s serves the very best local produce, from St John baked goods to Monmouth coffee. A caveat: small fry-ups do not exist here. They come in all shapes but one size: for the hungry. If your appetite doesn’t quite stretch, order an equally tasty but more manageable breakfast roll, or scrambled egg with smoked salmon on toast.

6. Good as Gold

Expect classic breakfast fare at Good as Gold, a limewash-walled Australian-inspired cafe around the corner from Brockley station. It draws a mixed crowd of freelancers on laptops and young families during the week when its menu boasts a tasty hot-sauce spiked omelette and brioche roll. But it’s the weekend brunch dishes you should be waiting for: the ‘Brockley Biggie’ – a collision of halloumi, chorizo and avocado on chilli-jam-slathered buttery toast – is always a winner (add the hash browns for a crispy hit), as are the jalapeño-and-sweetcorn fritters drizzled with nutty tahini and herby green sauce. If the weather permits, enjoy a coffee on one of its sun-soaked benches at the front – an ideal spot for people-watching.

7. Nandine

Nandine is a place of local legend – and rightly so. This Camberwell establishment is forever busy thanks to chef Pary Baban’s heady mix of subtle spice and Kurdish flavours. And while we highly recommend Nandine for dinner, its breakfasts, which are only served at the weekend, are not to be missed. Choose between its two SE5 locations – Camberwell Church Street or Vestry Road – and dig into spicy shakshuka in which baked eggs tremble in a sauce of slow-cooked tomatoes. (Ask for an extra portion of its sesame-seed crusted bread, which is freshly baked at the Vestry Road site.) The Kurdish breakfast – a humble cold plate of cheese, honeycomb and shepherd’s salad topped with sticky tahini syrup – is just as delicious.

8. Milk

Don’t be put off Balham’s Milk when you see the queue of people waiting for its famed brunch specials stretching around the corner on the weekend. It’s worth the wait. Once seated inside – or, if you’re lucky enough to visit on a bright day, on one of its benches at the front – expect to tuck into intricately presented dishes of moreish eggs and delectable treats. We suggest trying the poached egg on toast with creamy burnt-butter hollandaise and seasonal greens, and the sweetcorn fritters spiked with kasundi, a piquant fermented mustard sauce. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, however, the halva butter spread on warm banana bread and drizzled with silky tahini is the order to make.

EAST
9. E. Pellicci

This legendary family-run Italian restaurant has been a Bethnal Green institution since Priamo and Elide Pellicci set up shop in 1900. And while the rest of its menu pays homage to the couple’s Italian roots, the breakfasts are a more English affair. In fact, according to East End lore, the Kray brothers would enjoy theirs at E. Pellicci every morning. Go for the full works and order a classic fry-up (veggie options are available too) and pore over the interiors while you dine: the ornate wood-panelled walls were carved by a carpenter regular back in the 1940s – and have helped earn E. Pellicci a Grade II-listed status.

10. Bangers

You can find sausage connoisseurs Bangers at a new site not far from Old Street station, which has opened after a successful residency at listening bar Next Door Records in Shepherds Bush. The smashed patties on offer, made using meat from heritage butcher C. Lidgate’s, come in shiny brioche buns from Spence Bakery and are great with a side of crunchy hash browns. And there’s good news for veggies and vegans too: the plant-based patties are just as delicious as the real thing, as are the baked beans. Don’t forget to order extras of its homemade sauces – the apple ketchup is particularly good – or to take in the striped coffee machine, surely the chicest in town. The bloody marys are excellent too.

11. Morito

Drawing upon Spanish and Middle Eastern flavours, Morito – founded by Sam and Sam Clark of Moro – elevates English breakfasts to new culinary heights on Saturday and Sunday. The ‘Full Catalan’, for example, is a souped-up version of the classic, swapping out the usual suspects for herby and spiced butifarra and rich morcilla sausages. For something a little lighter, however, you can’t go wrong with its fragrant pan  con tomate or if you’re feeling indulgent, churros with chocolate to go with your coffee. Oh, and if you’re visiting the morning after a big night, don’t skip the Bloody Mary, which comes with just the right amount of spice.

12. Cafe Cecilia

Don’t worry if you can’t get a reservation at restaurant du jour Cafe Cecilia: it’s walk-in only for breakfasts, so if you’re there early enough, you’ll be able to get a table. Here you can sample founder and chef Max Rocha’s famed Guinness bread with boiled eggs and soft creamy curls of Irish cheese, fellow chef Rosie McBurney’s special egg and Neal’s Yard cheese sandwich – or you can tuck into a plate of salty kippers for something out of the ordinary. Thanks to its floor-to-ceiling windows, this Regent’s Canal spot gets beautiful morning light and is only minutes away from the delights of Broadway Market, which makes for a wonderful post-brunch pitstop on the weekend.

13. Snackbar

If the bright-yellow façade of Dalston’s Snackbar doesn’t lift your spirits, its suntrap of a garden on a bright blue-skied day will do the trick. The quaint courtyard is a particularly fine place to while away a late morning on the weekend when you can opt for bottomless Bloody Marys or mimosas. When it comes to the food, order Snackbar’s take on the McMuffin: dill-dusted hash browns, crispy sausage patty and melted American cheese wedged in between soft-toasted English slices. If that doesn’t take your fancy, the menu also offers a Korean-style BLT with kimchi and a lox plate served with locally-made bagels from Papo’s who are just down the road on Shacklewell Lane.

WEST
14. Regency Cafe

Regency Cafe is a London institution in Pimlico (not too far away from Tate Britain) that opened in 1946 and has been serving its signature fry-ups and strong brews ever since. It’s not often that a place is known specifically for builders’ tea, but the Regency has nailed its formula, having once been described by a journalist as “a mug of pure, liquid copper”. Everything on the menu deserves a shout out – from the expansive set breakfast to the golden-hued omelette and perfectly chunky chips. The Instagram-ready interiors, which include red-and-white chequered curtains running along the windows and characterful framed photographs, are the cherry on top. 

15. Kuro

Kuro has taken over the back streets of Notting Hill, with three ventures including a coffee shop, a bakery and an all-day restaurant serving Middle Eastern-inspired fare. West London locals and visitors alike come here for breakfasts including green shakshuka topped with tart sheep’s milk labneh, and mushroom congee with jammy Korean-style soy-marinated eggs. Even when it’s busy, Kuro has a sense of calm perfect for starting the day right, thanks to its clean and considered interiors – think white walls and simple wooden furniture. On your way out stop by Kuro Coffee for an iced matcha latte to go.

CENTRAL
16. Maison Francois

For a special kind of indulgence, head to Maison Francois, a grand French brasserie in St James’. There’s something utterly delightful about having brunch here, where you can quite literally watch time go by on the grand clock face. The restaurant’s atmospheric lighting, deep-terracotta walls and dark walnut banquettes transport diners to Paris, while the menu is a similarly Continental affair. This is one for a special occasion: order plates such as caviar and scrambled eggs, salty jamon blanc sandwiches, garlicky flatbreads topped with mussels, and crispy potato rosti with spiced ketchup. Get your caffeine fix from an espresso martini and make sure to save room for when the dessert trolley stops by your table – it’s as spectacular as it sounds.

17. The Wolseley

If a classic greasy spoon is one side of the coin, then The Wolseley’s fine-dining brasserie experience is on the other. Dining at this exquisite Mayfair restaurant is an entirely elegant experience from the second you step foot inside, where black-and-white chequered flooring and smartly dressed waiters in waistcoats add to the ambience. The full English is, naturally, delicious, as are the perfectly poached eggs with kedgeree and glossy hollandaise sauce, or the fried haggis with duck eggs drenched in whiskey sauce.

18. 26 Grains

Porridge lovers will find solace in 26 Grains’ oat-forward menu, in which founder Alex Hely-Hutchinson and her team have elevated the modest breakfast dish to main-character status. The tasty sweet dishes include five-grain porridge topped with a tart rhubarb compote, blood orange, almond brittle and yoghurt ; and one with banana, tahini, honey, cinnamon, sesame seeds and cacao nibs. For those with a more savoury palate, there are equally tasty plates including a wild garlic, basil and mushroom toastie, and sautéed asparagus, pancetta and peas with mint, goats curd and pickled radish on sourdough bread. Home cooks will be pleased to hear that you can also find Alex’s oat-based recipes on the website too. 

 

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