Resident’s Guide: a walking tour of Regent’s Canal

While the River Thames (probably fairly) gets the most attention when it comes to London’s waterways, there are plenty of other aqueous delights in London worth exploring. The Regent’s Canal, named after the Prince Regent, later George IV, is part of London’s Grand Union Canal and snakes 14 delightful kilometres between Little Venice and Limehouse, where it meets the Thames. It’s an almost unbeatable way to explore London, and with a good pair of shoes and sustaining snacks along the way, it can easily be managed in a day. Here, we take you on a walking tour of the Regent’s Canal – including where to stop, what to see, and what to eat and drink.

Regent's Canal
1. Little Venice

Begin your journey in Little Venice, a charming spot in Maida Vale. It was relatively unscathed during the Second World War so retains many of its grand Georgian buildings, the backs of which are visible from the canal. Pick up a coffee at the Waterside Café barge before popping up to street level for a look at the bucolic Rembrandt Gardens, bursting with tulips and hyacinths. Visit the bustling Church Street Market, which runs from the Edgware Road to the fringes of Marylebone, taking in everything from fruit and veg stalls to leather goods suppliers along the way – make sure to stop off at Alfie’s Antique Market to peruse the goods of over 40 traders over four floors.

 

Follow the canal to the recently done-up Paddington Basin, and be sure to look at the Rolling Bridge en route; designed by Thomas Heatherwick, its clever design unfurls to allow pedestrians to cross the water. There are plenty of barge restaurants such as Darcie & May Green (designed by pop artist Peter Blake) as well as alfresco drinking spots, including the popular – if not exactly intimate – Pergola Paddington. You could even nip into Paddington Station, designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in 1854 – but don’t get on any trains, as your canal expedition is just beginning.

2. Regent's Park

The canal leads from Paddington into Regent’s Park, one of London’s most-loved green spaces. Passing Lord’s Cricket Ground and St. John’s Wood (home to the Grade II-listed 1930s underground station designed by Stanley Heaps), the canal takes you through the heart of the park via ZSL London Zoo, with its many architectural delights, including the at-risk penguin pool by Berthold Lubetkin. Stop off to visit the lions or, if you don’t want to commit to a full day at the zoo, take a look at the birds flying around the imposing Snowdon Aviary adjoining the canal. You could also exit the canal path for a quick stomp up Primrose Hill, which offers arguably the best views of London from anywhere in the city, or take a detour to see the Denys Lasdun-designed Royal College of Physicians, one of the city’s best modernist buildings.

 

As Regent’s Park turns into Camden, you’ll pass a handsome assortment of houses, including one that belonged to post-war British artist William Roberts. There is an English Heritage blue plaque on the front of this house, but only those in the know will spot it from the canal. There is also more contemporary design to be found on this stretch of the canal, including Grand Union Walk, a row of modernist townhouses built in 1988 by renowned architect Sir Nicholas Grimshaw.

3. King's Cross

Our next stop is King’s Cross, which has become something of a must-visit in recent years thanks to the redevelopment of Coal Drops Yard and Granary Square by Heatherwick Studio. Striking contemporary apartments housed in old gasholders rise above the canal, while impressive empty containers encircle the miniature Gasholders Park. There is an abundance of shops, including the Tom Dixon flagship store, M.H.L by Margaret Howell and A.P.C, and an almost overwhelming variety of restaurants – Lina Stores, Barrafina, Hoppers, Dishoom and Café Bao, to name a few. Steps lead from the canal to Granary Square, where you can sit and enjoy a sandwich from Sons & Daughters.

 

This section of the canal is also home to Words on the Water, a floating bookshop in a restored 1920s Dutch barge. Have a browse and stroll along the water to Grade A-listed King’s Place, a music and visual arts venue. It overlooks Battlebridge Basin, which is home to the London Canal Museum, should you wish to undertake a deep dive – so to speak – into its watery history. Central Saint Martin’s is nearby, as is an Everyman Cinema.

4. Islington

As the waterway winds to Islington, you must briefly leave the path at Angel (it rather startlingly disappears under a tunnel) – but you can swiftly re-join it, and in the meantime why not have a wander around the area? Islington Farmer’s Market takes place every Sunday, while there are plenty of permanent eateries and shops worth a visit, from the much-loved brunch spot Sunday to Oldroyd restaurant and the many delights of Camden Passage, with its antique shops and markets. The Almeida Theatre is just along Upper Street, conveniently located near Ottolenghi.

 

Once you have re-joined the canal, enjoy the buzzy atmosphere of City Road Basin and perhaps a coffee from Canal No. 5 cafe. The next ‘arm’ of the canal, Wenlock Basin, provides access to Victoria Miro Gallery which primarily showcases American artists. If you’re feeling the need for some green space, nearby Union Square Gardens and Arlington Gardens, or the larger Shoreditch Park, are the perfect spots to sit with a pastry from the renowned Pophams bakery. Alternatively, remain on the canal path and visit the Narrowboat pub, immediately on the water – a lovely spot for a drink in the sun.

5. Dalston

Islington leads to Dalston, via Hoxton, Haggerston and De Beauvoir. Along the way, you’ll see the back of Gainsborough Studios (now converted into apartments) as you stroll, which is where Alfred Hitchcock learnt his trade.

 

Stop by the Hang Up Gallery for a browse of some contemporary art, picking up a coffee and a snack at one of the many waterside cafes. Notable spots include the Towpath Café, Café Route, By the Bridge Café and Arepa & Co. If you need something more sustaining, head to the Waterhouse Restaurant, a charity for disadvantaged young people in the borough which serves fresh, simple food; or Toconoco, a waterside Japanese cafe. While you’re in the area, pop up to street level and head to London Fields (and even take a dip in the lido) via Broadway Market, a working Victorian street market with a roster of independents, such as Donlon Books.

6. Victoria Park

As the Thames draws ever-closer, Victoria Park appears on the left-hand side of the canal. The park itself is one of London’s biggest and is the site of major music festivals in the summer months. It also has a popular café and a fine art gallery, as well as a weekly produce market. The queues outside The Tomato Stall and Crosstown Donuts here speak for themselves, although there’s an abundance of choice.

 

Bottle Apostle and the Ginger Pig are nearby in Victoria Park Village, while there are plenty of delights to be found in Bethnal Green on the southern side of the canal. There’s plenty to see here, including the V&A Museum of Childhood and the beautiful Town Hall Hotel (a 1910 building with Edwardian exteriors and fantastic art deco interiors). The canal splits at this point into the Hertford Union Canal, which leads towards Stratford and the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park.

7. Mile End & Limehouse

From Victoria Park, the canal winds along Mile End Park and ultimately to our final destination, the Thames. Before arriving at the river, take a stroll around Mile End Park (or a skate around Mile End Skate Park, if you are so inclined). Roman Road Market is nearby, an east London staple that has been running for over 150 years and stretches over 1km through the heart of Bow. Visit Candi Donut Co for churros or G Kelly for pies and mash if your energy levels are running low, or journey slightly further afield to the E5 Bakehouse to pick up some freshly baked treats.

 

As we arrive at Limehouse Basin, the Regent’s Canal meets the Thames. The basin is home to narrowboats, yachts and visiting ocean-going craft and is a lovely spot for a stroll. If you’re ready to relax by this point – and we imagine that you are – take a seat at The Grapes, a centuries-old pub co-owned by Sir Ian McKellen and Sean Mathias. Get a drink and head to the terrace, where you’ll look out over the expanse of the longest river in England and enjoy a well-deserved rest.

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