A Resident's Guide to: Isle of Skye, Scotland
Sitting just off the west coast of Scotland, the Isle of Skye is the largest of the Inner Hebrides, a Highland archipelago where fabled history, rugged scenery, world-famous whisky production and a burgeoning food scene converge to captivating effect.
Here we’ve assembled a guide to the island with the help of Skye-born creative consultant Hugo Macdonald. From globally-lauded restaurants to local boutiques via centuries-old castles and artisan gin makers, Hugo shares his insider tips to one of Scotland’s most alluring destinations.
The one-time ancestral home of the Donald clan is now a ruin, but is nevertheless worth a visit for its landscaped gardens, elucidating museum and dramatic setting. Pack your walking boots to explore five miles of nature trails and keep your eyes peeled for wildlife including red deer and sea eagles.
The stronghold of the MacLeod clan for 800 years is perched on a rock overlooking an idyllic inlet of Loch Dunvegan, a classic Highland vista if ever there was one. Tour the castle, replete with many mystery-shrouded treasures, then head out on the water for a look at the local seal colony before debriefing at MacLeod Tables Café.
‘Picturesque’ falls somewhat short of describing the old fishing village of Isleornsay, positioned on a natural harbour on the island’s southern coast. Eilean Iarmain is a 19th-century hotel, with a food offering that covers hearty pub dishes and a fine dining tasting menu, often featuring produce like hand-dived scallops and Highland venison.
This 16th-century hunting lodge turned hotel was the childhood home of Hugo, and is now run by his sister, Isabella. Brazilian-Scottish chef Marcello Tully heads up the lauded restaurant, which celebrates local produce in various menu iterations. Upstairs, a range of rooms and suites are some of the finest accommodation on the island.
While a whisky-free visit to the island would be considered nothing short of sacrilege in many circles, Skye’s first gin distillery makes for a worthy alternative (or supplement, depending on your sensibilities). The brainchild of natives Thomas and Alistair Wilson, the brothers make their tipple using spring waters from Storr Loch and sell the individually-crafted bottles from a bijou shop in Portree.
This Portree-based shop purveys a wide range of contemporary Scottish jewellery, prints, crafts and art; ideal if you’re in the market for a souvenir or two.
An Crùbh (‘The Hub’) is a community-built café, shop and events space, with a post office to boot, and was opened in 2017. Order from the vegetarian-focused menu in the café, pick up some local produce in the shop, or dig out your kilt for a traditional cèilidh.
Check out the Isle of Skye website for the best walks all over the island. Hugo’s favourites are Camasunary, Quirang, Neist Point and the Fairy Pools. Depending on the weather, Bella Jane boat trips will take you into Loch Coruisk at the heart of the Black Cuillin range, one of Skye’s most spectacular sites. For fly fishing, foraging, walking and stalking guides, Skye Ghille is a fail-safe bet.
